Sangiovese grapes ripen in one of Cecchi’s Chianti Classico vineyards.Matteo Brogi/Supplied
Andrea Cecchi, who manages his family’s estates in Tuscany and Umbria, attributes their success to the sangiovese grape. Representing 95 per-cent of the family’s red wine varieties, it enables them to produce a range of distinctive wines at various price points.
“Sangiovese is a chameleon,” says Cecchi, the fourth generation of his family to make wine since his great-grandfather started the business in 1893. “It changes from one place to another. The soil helps determine the style and the structure of the wine, the different expositions in the vineyard affect the ripeness of the grapes.”
Cecchi’s father moved production to Castellina in Chianti, near Siena, in the 1960s. In the 1960s and 70s, winemakers favoured sangiovese clones that would produce the most grapes. Over time, the preference has shifted from quantity to quality. More than 100 clones of sangiovese have been registered since the 1990s, Cecchi explains.
He says he continues to look for ways to improve quality and sustainability of the vineyards, with an increasing eye on researching how sangiovese can adapt to a changing climate.
Andrea Cecchi.Courtesy of Famiglia Cecchi/Supplied
The family’s most recent acquisition was a six-hectare property in Montalcino, where sangiovese is used to produce Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines, purchased in 2018. “We bought in Montalcino rather than Bolgheri because I know sangiovese better than the Bordeaux grape varieties,” Cecchi says, referring to another celebrated wine-growing region on the Tuscan coast where Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Guado al Tasso have wowed collectors with age-worthy cabernet and merlot blends.
The family continues to explore how different sangiovese clones and rootstock combinations affect the quality of the wine as well as which are best to handle warm and dry conditions. The grape harvest is happening earlier in Tuscany and Umbria, he says, and weather patterns have become more unpredictable. “Sometimes we have difficult, dry seasons so we need to have a more vigorous rootstock,” he says. (A vigorous rootstock develops a more extensive root system to access moisture to prevent water stress during drought conditions.)
When it comes to winemaking, it took time to figure out how to preserve sangiovese’s unique character. Today, the goal is to produce wines with approachable and authentic sangiovese character, whether they are made in a fresh, fruit-forward style or with more richness and complexity. “We needed to get creative and try new approaches,” Cecchi says
Two different expressions of sangiovese from Cecchi are recommended this week, alongside two other notable Italian wines to enjoy now.
Cecchi Chianti 2024 (Italy), $15
Rating: 88
Cecchi Chianti is an unoaked blend of sangiovese, canaiolo and colorino that offers appealing juicy black cherry and tart red fruit flavours.
Its straightforward style and mouthwatering finish make it a terrific red wine to enjoy with a meal.
The bright and slightly bitter character makes this a bottle best enjoyed with food.
This has 13 per-cent alcohol by volume and 5 grams a litre residual sugar. Drink now.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $17.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $17.99 in Manitoba, $18 in New Brunswick, $26.32 in Newfoundland.
Cecchi Storia Di Famiglia Chianti Classico 2021 (Italy), $18.85
Rating: 91
This Chianti Classico is based on ripe and elegant core of red fruit flavours with mushroom, tea leaves and walnut notes that contribute to an overall autumnal vibe.
The dry and savoury style is rounded by plush texture and persistent length.
This classic Tuscan red is flavourful enough to enjoy on its own but is also a fine match with grilled meats or vegetable dishes or tomato-based pastas.
This has 13.5 per-cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $21.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $24.95 in Nova Scotia.
Labrusca Lini 910 Lambrusco Rosso Secco (Italy), $21.95
Rating: 89
Lini has a tremendous track-record of producing refreshing and juicy Lambrusco in Emilia-Romagna since 1910.
Its current release is dry and savoury, with a pleasing mix of cherry and berry flavours and a gentle tug of tannins on the finish.
Red sparkling wines always make an impression. This one goes well with a wide variety of dishes, from barbecued fare to Mexican cuisine to charcuterie.
It’s a fun and frothy option for a Thanksgiving turkey dinner but would work even better with the next day’s leftovers.
This has 10.5 per-cent ABV and 11 g/litre r.s. Drink now.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Lungarotti Rubesco Rosso di Torgiano 2022 (Italy), $20.95
Rating: 90
The Lungarotti family has been producing Rubesco since 1962.
The sangiovese-based wine from Umbria has a different personality than the more famous examples produced nearby in Tuscany.
The 2022 vintage offers bold cherry and raspberry notes, which gain structure from its chalky texture and gripping tannins.
This stylish red is aged for one year in large oak barrels and another in the bottle before release. Its refreshing style makes it a wine to enjoy with a meal.
This has 14 per-cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.06 in Nova Scotia.