April in Toronto drags on, but the seafood scene refuses to hibernate. Across the city, bars and restaurants are piling plates with briny conservas and fresh catches that make even the grayest day worth leaving the house.
For anyone bored of the usual meat-and-cheese boards, “sea-cuterie” is having a moment. Some spots serve it ready-made, some let you build your own, but all of it offers a little indulgence and a welcome change of pace.
Here are five spots to hit when only tinned fish and a good glass of wine will do.
Bar Raval
Standing at the bar at this classic spot with a vermouth is about as Toronto as it gets. Bar Raval is the go-to for tinned fish, and the menu is stacked with options. Order the smoked mackerel or the vinegar-cured boquerones and let them load up the bread. Don’t come here for quiet conversation, the restaurant is loud and busy, but the cozy dark wood room makes it easy to forget how cold it is outside.
Bar Isabel
This is Raval’s moodier, more buttoned-down sibling where the seafood arrives with a bit more ceremony. While the rest of the world is chasing whatever’s viral on TikTok, Isabel stays winning with a curated conservas list that feels (and tastes) expensive. You can build a board with tuna mojama and Galician scallops in garlic oil, or opt for a Pintxo Matrimonio for a compact seafood option. The pan con tomate can be paired with boquerones for a satisfying add-on. Everything is straightforward, thoughtful, and lets the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves.
Paradise Grapevine
This Bloor West spot sets the bar for anyone craving a generous spread without overthinking it. The $65 Everything Plate lives up to its name—a delicious, slightly chaotic heap of whatever’s shining that day. There’s a mix of cheese and cured meats, but the real highlight is how seamlessly the tinned fish gets worked in. It all comes together as a salty, snacky spread that pairs perfectly with a glass of house wine and a patio heater doing its best against the April drizzle.
The Daughter
Avenue Road isn’t exactly known for being edgy, but the DIY board approach at The Daughter is hard to argue with. Start with the pillowy challah topped with whipped ricotta and hot honey, then pair it with something like chili-spiked scallops or Nova Scotia salmon crudo. The whole vibe is very uptown chic meets a Lisbon snack bar and we’re here for it.
Taverne Bernnhardt
Everyone flocks to this Dovercourt spot for the rotisserie chicken, but the real insiders know the seafood dishes are a must. The current seafood fricassée is basically a coastal celebration on a plate — tender squid rings, plump mussels and juicy shrimp all piled together. It comes on a slab of garlic toast with wilted spinach, thoroughly soaked in the rich, buttery sauce, creating that perfect soggy-bottomed mess that feels just right on a cold day.
