Will California wines still be popular when they’re back on liquor-store shelves? | Canada Voices

More than a year has passed since The Globe and Mail reviewed American wines. This represents the longest period without any Napa, Sonoma or Paso Robles cabernet recommendations in the publication since the wine column began as a weekly feature in the 1980s.

My reviews of American-made labels stopped before provinces prohibited the import and sale of American beer, wine and spirits last March as a result of the United States’ intensifying trade war and President Donald Trump’s inflammatory remarks about making Canada a 51st state. The column focuses on accessible bottles, and it was clear that consumer sentiments for American goods were waning and that retaliatory measures were coming.

Despite Alberta and Saskatchewan bringing back American alcohol last year, the continuing prohibition elsewhere means wines from California, Oregon and Washington remain unavailable to many.

With guests souring on U.S. wines, Canadian sommeliers recommend made-at-home alternatives

I still occasionally hear from readers looking for suitable alternatives to their beloved California chardonnay brands, but the inquiries have changed over time from “When do you think California wine will come back?” to “Do you believe California wine will be as sought-after when it returns?”

I doubt consumers will exhibit the same steadfast loyalty to California cabernet and chardonnay in the future. The emotional bond with popular brands such as Barefoot, Duckhorn and Mondavi has been broken. Sliding into a booth at the Keg won’t trigger the automatic urge to order a Keg-sized (9-ounce) glass of J.Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet or Woodbridge Chardonnay any more.

In the absence of go-to bottles we reach for as if by reflex, shopping for wine and spirits has become a conscious effort. The muscle memory of grabbing a bottle or two of McManus cabernet and heading to the cashier has been replaced, out of necessity, by shopping with intention.

Canadian wines have gained the most attention as a strong “buy local” movement has taken shape, but sales have also increased for French, Italian and other international wines as well. Winemakers nationwide hope to capitalize on this unique chance to grow their market presence.

Shoppers are increasingly buying Canadian wines with robust flavours that reflect popular American styles, while also enjoying lighter and more vibrant wines with reduced alcohol levels (often 12.5 per cent ABV versus 13.5 and higher from California’s warm climate), notably ones made from pinot noir and gamay. The wines that once seemed inferior to the ripe and concentrated California red wines are now being welcomed as a result of changing preferences.

Years, if not decades, of brand-building, education and investment in the Canadian market by American producers have been disrupted. When trade tensions cease and U.S. bottles are restocked any previous goodwill and support won’t come back quickly. It will be like seeing the modern-era Beach Boys with singer Mike Love as the sole face of the group – that once fun-fun-fun vibe is different now.