The Alpes-Maritimes Marathon course goes from Nice to Cannes and almost the entire 42.2 kilometre route is along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea.ACTIVIMAGES/Supplied
The sun is just waking up and the moon is still visible in the sky, but the excitement and energy is palpable as runners from all over the world gather for the Alpes-Maritimes Marathon.
The second-largest marathon in France, after Paris, is by far the most scenic if you’re drawn to the Mediterranean. About 6,600 of the 22,000 runners are international – from 90 different countries. Like me, they’ve come to race the coastal course and also to take in the South of France. It’s a cool morning as we gather in one of Nice’s biggest squares, Place Masséna, before heading to the much anticipated start line and the race we’ve spent months training for.
Destination race travel has been growing for years and marathon vacations in particular have taken off since the pandemic. Think of it as the running version of revenge travel.
A good example of the trend is reflected in the Abbott World Marathon Majors. For years, people aspired to do the six races that attract the fastest elites. They’re held in London, Boston, New York, Chicago, Berlin and Tokyo, with a seventh, Sydney, being added in 2025. When I completed the six in 2019, I was one of 76 women in Canada and 4,989 people internationally to have done all the races. As of 2025, more than 20,000 people had completed the six majors.
Thousands of runners gather at the start line of the Alpes-Maritimes Marathon in Nice.activimages/Supplied
Similarly, the number of runners who lace up and combine competitive runs with vacations continues to grow. Accor, which has hotels in more than 110 countries, reported athletic adventures were one of the biggest travel trends in 2025. Its study cited high-profile races that motivate people to plan trips and combine fitness challenges with travel.
The stunning 42.2-kilometre route from Nice to Cannes has been on my wish list for a long time. It was slightly daunting – given that I’m six years older and slower than I was for my last big race. But the challenge, my love of the sport and the South of France gave me all the motivation I needed.
The race starts on the renowned Promenade des Anglais with the azure colours of the sea on one side and a procession of palm trees and elegant buildings on the other. Crowds cheer everyone on with calls of “Allez, allez!” and “Bravo!” from the get-go.
Almost the entire route hugs the coast, winding through little towns and passing by beaches, yacht clubs and villas. For the most part the course is flat, so by the time I get to the halfway point in Antibes, I’m pumped and happy with my pace. To add to the rush, I pass the Picasso Museum and the 16th-century Fort Carré, built by King Henry II of France. Amazing. The sun is blazing when I run through Juan-les-Pins, where F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald once lived.
Sharon Lindores and other runners gather in Nice’s Place Masséna before heading to the start line of the Alpes-Maritimes Marathon.Sharon Lindores/Supplied
As I reach the 35-kilometre mark by the seaside town of Vallauris Golfe-Juan, I’m ripping open a gel-pack snack to keep my energy up. There have only been a couple of hills – but they were challenging – and I’m really pushing myself.
But once Cannes comes into view, my adrenalin kicks in and I manage to sprint across the finish line. The Promenade de la Croisette is full of runners and spectators instead of the usual celebrities and movie stars that gather here for the Cannes Film Festival.
At last, I can cool my legs in the Mediterranean and indulge in local cheeses, pâté en croûte, madeleines and fresh fruit in the recovery area.
I’m still in my race gear, full of endorphins and wearing my medal as I leave the marathon site. There’s a sense of camaraderie with other runners as we spill into the harbourfront area lined with picturesque cafés and I find an antique market in the central square. I wander by stalls with everything from silverware to vintage Chanel jewellery on the way back to my hotel.
The après buzz of the run definitely outlasts my tired legs and I’m happy to have a couple of days to explore the area.
The medieval hilltop village St. Paul de Vence was an inspiration for many artists such as Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall.Sharon Lindores/Supplied
One day I venture inland from the Côte d’Azur to St. Paul de Vence. The medieval hilltop village was an inspiration for the likes of Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Marc Chagall. The latter lived here for 19 years and is buried in the local cemetery.
The windy, cobbled streets that carve through the fortified old village are pedestrian-only and overflowing with little studios, galleries and boutiques – with a wonderful mix of paintings and sculptures, handmade jewellery, artisanal pottery, chic clothing, herbs and fragrances from Provence … I could go on. The stone buildings, the old fountain square, even the ramparts and entrance to St. Paul de Vence evoke a whole different sensibility from that of the bigger coastal cities.
Across from the village, the Fondation Maeght, which has one of the largest collections of modern art in Europe, stands on another hilltop with great views of the surrounding countryside. The property is a masterful blend of nature, architecture and art. I soak up the views, while taking in the courtyard, which features works by Alberto Giacometti, Joan Miró and Georges Braque.
Inside the gallery, the light-filled rooms are spacious and although there are more than 13,000 works in the collection, the exhibits have plenty of room to breathe. The gallery seems to encourage an open-minded, playful, yet thought-provoking approach to creativity.
Inspired and rejuvenated, I head east of Nice on another day to Èze. Perched on a rocky outcrop, it’s also a walled medieval village with charming, narrow stone streets. Tourists swarm the town during the high season – there are Michelin-starred restaurants, luxury hotels and the Fragonard Parfumeur shop and laboratory – yet it’s still a delight on the coastal road to Monaco.
The Alpes-Maritimes marathon expo, where you pick up your race number, is held by the Port of Nice.Sharon Lindores/Supplied
Èze’s steep streets lead to Jardin Exotique at the pinnacle, some 400 metres (1,310 feet) above sea level. It’s full of impressive succulents and cacti and a colourful array of plants from the Mediterranean. Meandering pathways are dotted with statues by Jean-Philippe Richard.
Up here I take a moment to enjoy more magnificent views of the coast. I look beyond Cannes to the Esterel Mountains and the Gulf of Saint-Tropez and, when I turn my head, to the beginning of the Ligurian coast in Italy. Once again, I’m struck by both the tranquillity and magnificence of the Côte d’Azur.
I’m also glad I’ve got bragging rights for running 42.2 km of this stunning coastline in the Alpes-Maritimes Marathon.
IF YOU GO
The next Alpes-Maritimes Marathon is Nov. 8. Register early if you’re interested. Last year, it sold out in May. The event offers the full 42.2 km marathon, a 21.1 km route for pairs, a 20 km route, and a marathon relay for teams of three to six people.
Alpes-Maritimes Marathon covered the writer’s entry fee; it did not review or approve this article. Stories are based on merit; The Globe does not guarantee coverage.
