A fun and flirty hotel opens on Croatia’s southern peninsula | Canada Voices

When you walk into Hotel Katarina, the Adriatic Sea is just outside – but it’s also everywhere you look inside.

The Relais & Châteaux property, which opened in April, is perched on the Peljesac Peninsula in Orebic, on the southern coast of Croatia. It bursts with decor that nods to the town’s maritime past, from hand-painted murals of nautical scenes to ocean motifs on brightly coloured bedspreads, drapes and wallpaper.

Talk to the locals and they’ll all tell you Orebic’s history as the “town of captains” has had a lasting significance in this community. Although times (and along with them, the economy) have changed, reverence to the water is eternal.

Why you should visit

Orebic is about a two-hour drive northwest of Dubrovnik or about three hours southeast of Split.

The town – population 2,000 – is on the coast but you won’t find large cruise liners here, or the crowds they bring. Instead, you’ll spot smaller ships and private yachts making their way between Croatia’s nearly 1,300 islands, some stopping to explore the historic island of Korcula right across the strait.

“You can’t buy shoes or find a proper drugstore here,” Hotel Katarina general manager Olga Krizmanic says. “But in 10 minutes, you have Korcula, in 10 minutes, you have vineyards, in 10 minutes you’re hiking a mountain. There are so many things.”

World-class dining and wine make this region one to rival glitzier European locales – but it is refreshingly less busy.

The hotel is the latest venture in Orebic from American billionaire businessman Lee Anderson and his wife, Penny. In the early 2000s, the philanthropists fell in love with the area. After buying a derelict waterfront hotel and nearby vineyards, they launched winery Korta Katarina and transformed the old building into an eight-suite opulent villa hotel, which opened in 2019.

Earlier this year, the couple opened Hotel Katarina a couple of kilometres from the villa.

“This is not just a business project. There’s so much detail, so much love, so much fun,” Krizmanic says, gesturing around the lobby. I immediately know what she means. Behind the reception desk is a mural of the sea at the foot of the hotel, painted by artist Neven Kralj. You’ll see one of the painted sailboats actually bobbing in the waters outside – Kralj‘s summertime home.

When I enter my suite, I am instantly at ease in the bright space, an oasis of blue and white. The azure tones inside blend into the turquoise waters outside, and I am charmed by the thoughtful accents, such as mix-and-match tea cups and a small seagull figurine.

Normally, I drop my bags as soon as I arrive at a hotel and rush out to explore. But here, I settle onto the couch on my large balcony, nibbling the hotel’s welcome gift of artisanal chocolates. I am content just taking in the incredible view and the sound of the waves crashing on the shore (and the chocolates do their part).

Then, I enjoy the enormous bathroom, with a walk-in shower, stand-alone tub and heated floors, and generously stocked with Bulgari amenities. A wall-mounted tablet loaded with Spotify lets me easily stream music through the suite.

For dinner, I venture to the Captain’s Terrace and find a table with breathtaking sea views. The menu is seafood-focused, with items such as cuttlefish risotto, swordfish with scallop cream, and my choice: seabass nestled in Swiss chard, with cabbage sauce and fresh garden herbs. The wine list (naturally) features Korta Katarina wines, such as the 2004 rosé (a delightfully dry, fruity pour), which took first place in its category at the Festival of the 100 Best Wines of Croatia earlier this year. A second restaurant, the American Bar, offers more casual fare.

Room for improvement

I would have loved to participate in a stretch or yoga class around the pool with the sea as a backdrop. The lack of such complimentary activities seems like an oversight for a property that’s clearly gone to great lengths to think of everything else.

Since you’re in the neighbourhood

There’s no shortage of activities nearby, including hiking trails up Mount St. Elijah, which looms 1,000 metres above the hotel.

Mostly, I loved our boat tour of the islands. A highlight was the stop at Korcula, which Croatians defend as the birthplace of explorer Marco Polo (although the Italians have their own convictions about his origins). Wandering the stone-paved pedestrian alleyways and ancient limestone buildings of Old Town, I felt like I’d stepped back into the 1400s.

My guide, Lea Cumbelic has been giving tours of Korcula for 18 years. She’s so good at it, it’s like exploring with an old friend. She greets people by name at the shops and cafes and points out her nursery school. When I ask Cumbelic what keeps her here, she looks around and says: “I feel so connected to everything here. The sea connects you to the world.”

The take-away

Not far from Hotel Katarina is its Michelin-keyed sister property, Villa Korta Katarina, where you’ll find gilded Italian antiques, customized dining and serious luxury, including a helipad for guests and 61-metre yacht available for hire. “The villa is like a castle for a princess,” Krizmanic had told me, and the property is so exquisite, I wouldn’t have been surprised to see Kate Middleton lounging by its infinity pool. In comparison, Hotel Katarina has a lighter, more playful mood, but it too comes with plenty of pampering.

Hotel Katarina, in Orebic, Croatia, is a two-hour drive from Dubrovnik or three hours from Split; rooms start at €450 a night. Minibars are stocked with soft drinks and alcohol, and rooms feature Nespresso machines. Guests have access to the spa, gym, heated pool and beach at the foot of the hotel. The hotel provides private transfers from the Dubrovnik and Split airports (rates typically range between 250-400 euros) or guests can arrive by ferry, catamaran, taxi boat or rental car, with complimentary parking provided. Hotelkatarina.com

The writer was a guest of the hotel, which did not review or approve this article. Stories are based on merit; The Globe does not guarantee coverage.