A surprising Spanish wine region finds success with crisp whites | Canada Voices

Rueda isn’t like other wine regions in Spain. It’s known for its white wine, which is primarily made from a single grape variety called verdejo.

The grape has been cultivated in the hot, dry northwest corner of Spain for more than 1,000 years. Originally used to produce sherry-style fortified wines, the vines can withstand Rueda’s mix of cold winters and hot summers, with average daytime temperatures reaching 29 C in July and nighttime temperatures dropping to 14 C. Those temperature fluctuations help preserve the freshness and aromatic intensity of the grapes, which results in more distinctive dry wines.

Dry wine production began in the 1970s, thanks to early pioneers like Marques de Riscal, which was one of the first to export wines from the region to Canada and other parts of the world. But even today, most of the region’s production is consumed at home. Rueda’s wines are the best-selling whites in Spain. United Kingdom, Germany and the Netherlands rank as the top export markets.

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The category is growing in popularity in Canada, with a reported 33-per-cent increase in sales in the past year according to the Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Rueda, which oversees winemaking and marketing of the region’s wines.

The verdejo grape is the region’s signature variety, with sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, viognier, viura (macebeo) and palamino fino also being grown. White wines labelled simply as Rueda can be made from a blend of grapes, while Rueda Verdejo wines must contain at least 85 per cent of the stated variety. (Most are made with 100 per cent of the variety.)

The wines are typically light to medium-bodied with vibrant, citrussy characters. The flavours suggest a mix of herbaceous and fruity notes that draw comparisons with sauvignon blanc, but with less aggressive acidity and a less pronounced grassy or herbal character. These seven wines demonstrate the versatility of verdejo, which can produce a variety of styles, depending on the ripeness of the grapes and the winemaker’s intention.

Bodegas Lan Verdejo Rueda 2024 (Spain), $15

Rating: 88

Bodegas Lan is a Rioja based winery that works with Rueda-based winemaker Olga Tormo to produce a fresh white wine with a concentrated citrus, peach and herbal character. It is a riper and richer style than many Rueda whites, with pleasing body, texture and length that enhances its crowd-pleasing appeal. This has 13.5 per cent alcohol by volume and 2 grams a litre residual sugar. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $19.95 in Quebec, $21.99 in New Brunswick.

Boyante Rueda Verdejo 2024 (Spain), $13.65

Rating: 89

The Boyante label is made by Bodegas Ontañón, a fifth-generation family winery based in Rioja. This affordable and vibrant white wine makes the most of its balanced, fruity character. You can expect lively citrus and juicy peach flavours supported by honey and pineapple notes. The lingering aftertaste suggests grapefruit pith and bitter orange notes, which add to the wine’s refreshing character. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Vegan. Drink now. Available in Ontario.

Camino del Puerto Rueda Verdejo 2024 (Spain), $13.75

Rating: 90

Winemaker François Lurton has expanded his operation beyond his native Bordeaux to Argentina, Chile and Portugal. He has been producing wine in Rueda since 1992 from an estate in La Seca. The Camino del Puerto label is an excellent introduction to the region, displaying the classic characteristics of verdejo in its dry and distinctive style. This racy and pure white wine offers a mix of fennel, lemon and wet stone flavours. It is a lighter white wine with impressive texture and length. This has 13 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $14.15 in Quebec, $19.30 in New Brunswick, $17.98 in Nova Scotia.

Cuatro Rayas Vendemio Nocturna Verdejo 2024 (Spain), $14.95

Rating: 88

Vendemio Nocturna on the label explains that the grapes used to make this expressive verdejo were harvested at night in order to preserve their freshness and acidity. The result is a fruity white wine with juicy acidity and a refreshing finish. Its appealing green apple, pear and Meyer lemon fruit flavours make it an enjoyable to drink on its own or with a meal. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.

Jose Pariente Verdejo 2025 (Spain), $24.95

Rating: 90

This is a focused and successful model of verdejo with intriguing flavours of kiwi, green pineapple and grapefruit, enhanced by white pepper and wet stone notes. It’s a serious food-friendly white wine, with the fresh and balanced character typical of the Rueda region. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.

Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo 2023 (Spain), $14.95

Rating: 88

Marqués de Cáceres offers a simple and expressive style of verdejo with a light and refreshing character. Its easy-drinking style offers a balance of zesty and juicy fruit with some spice and herbal accents. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $19.59 in Prince Edward Island.

Pandra Organic Verdejo Rueda 2025 (Spain), $18.35

Rating: 92

This wine is made from organically grown verdejo grapes from a 20-year-old vineyard on the Pandra estate and was aged for six months on its lees (the dead yeast cells left over from fermentation). As a result, it has a rich, creamy texture and shows riper tropical fruit flavours, including passion fruit and pineapple, that make it more sophisticated and complex than many Rueda wines in this price range. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2031. Available in Ontario.