One of the most highly anticipated parts of summer is the arrival of local tomatoes, the homegrown and farmers’ market varieties far outshining their year-round grocery store counterparts.
Julie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
Tomatoes exemplify how eating seasonally can be a transformative experience. At their peak, they need little adornment – at this time of year, it’s common to consume as many as possible simply sliced onto buttered, olive oiled or mayo-ed toast or soft sourdough, the most inobtrusive vehicle for a perfect tomato.
A buttery biscuit is equally well-suited, and if you consider how strawberry juices seep into the pillowy innards of split shortcakes, it’s easy to imagine swapping in juicy tomatoes.
Sharp cheese could be incorporated into the biscuits themselves, which might also be spread with pesto or basil butter. And if you have some cherry or grape tomatoes that are overripe or starting to wrinkle, cook them in a hot skillet with butter or olive oil and garlic until they pop, then spoon them, and their juices, over warm biscuits.
Savoury tomato shortcakes
For a smaller batch, halve the quantities and bake 2 or 3 biscuits in an air fryer or toaster oven.
Biscuits:
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 tbsp baking powder
- ½ tsp salt
- ½ cup butter, cold
- ½-1 cup grated old cheddar, Gouda or other sharp cheese (optional)
- ¾ cup milk, plus extra for brushing
Tomatoes:
- 2-3 lb fresh, ripe tomatoes
- salt, to taste
- olive oil
- balsamic vinegar (optional)
Whipped cheese:
- 4 oz soft goat cheese, creamy feta or Boursin
- whipping cream or half and half, to taste
- a spoonful of pesto (optional)
- fresh basil and/or chives, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 425˚F.
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Slice in the butter, or cut it into chunks, and work it in with a fork or your fingers until the mixture is crumbly, with pieces of butter the size of a blueberry remaining. If you like, add a handful or two of grated cheese and toss to combine.
Add the milk and stir just until the dough comes together. It may look like there isn’t enough liquid – use your hands to gather up the dough and you’ll likely see it is moist enough to hold together. If there is still too much flour in the bottom of the bowl, add a few more tablespoons of milk.
Pat the dough out about half an inch thick and fold it roughly in thirds, like a letter. Cover with a towel and let rest for 10 or 20 minutes, then pat or roll it out about an inch thick. Cut into six squares or wedges with a knife, or into rounds with a cookie cutter or empty can, gently rerolling any scraps (or baking them as is), and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. If you like, brush the tops with extra milk, or cream. Bake for 15 minutes, or until deep golden.
Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes into slices or chunks into a bowl and sprinkle with salt; drizzle with a bit of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, if you like, and gently toss to combine. Whip the goat cheese, feta or Boursin with enough cream to loosen it up, along with a spoonful of pesto, if you like. Split the biscuits and fill with tomatoes, then top with a dollop of whipped cheese. Serves 6.