Open for: Breakfast, lunch, and some Friday evenings
Price range: $
The Testaccio neighborhood market is the best place in central Rome to shop for seasonal produce, meat, fish, and baked goods all in one place. Get there in the morning to see it in full swing (it’s open Monday through Saturday until 2 p.m. and occasional evenings). Visit Da Artenio (Box 90) for takeaway pizza slices and pizzette, little pizzas topped with tomato sauce, potatoes, or onions. Don’t miss the essential Mordi e Vai (Box 15), where the Esposito family prepares sandwiches filled with offal and meat based on generations-old recipes, including disappearing historic dishes like alesso di scottona (simmered brisket). Nearby Da Corrado (Box 18) sells natural wines, artisan cheeses, and a handful of hot dishes — including incredible soups — while Casa Manco (Box 22) serves naturally leavened pizza by weight and Sicché (Box 37) specializes in Tuscany-inspired soups, sandwiches, and salads.
Must-try shops: Hit Mordi e Vai for offal sandwiches and Da Corrado for cheese, soup, and wine.
Katie Parla