Yakitori is becoming more and more commonplace in Toronto, but Karasu Yakitori, the newest omakase restaurant opening downtown, is presenting the Japanese culinary art form in a unique way — it incorporates a Latin flair.
Yakitori at its best is about more than chicken grilled over charcoal. It’s the care and skill behind each skewer, from the preparation to the cooking.
The manager at Karasu, Yutaka Tokuda, says the 14-course omakase restaurant follows a Japanese philosophy that translates to “One fire, many roots.” The phrase reflects the influence of the partnership team behind Karasu, which also operates Sumoki in Unionville and Bōru, which opened earlier this year in the same building. The team brings together professionals from Venezuela and head chef Sora Kimura, who trained in yakitori in Japan for several years.
“We’re bringing all these roots, cultural and culinary backgrounds, into our concept,” says Tokuda. “We believe that doing this in Toronto is very meaningful as Toronto is one of, if not the most, diverse city in the world.”
Hidden on the second floor, Karasu has a 14-seat counter and takes reservations only. Each skewer is grilled over high-grade binchotan charcoal and served immediately, at its peak, in what the restaurant calls “grill-to-table” dining.
Karasu’s menu consists of two types of chicken — one from Kyoto, Japan and a Canadian free-run organic chicken that’s richer in flavour — which are butchered daily. Tokuda says each piece of the bird — tail and belly skin included — are all used across the 14 courses. Even the bones are used in the broth that’s part of the starter.
Since Tokuda explains that “99 per cent of the omakase style is preparation,” you can be sure there’s intention put into crafting each piece of chicken from the skewer to the portions, to how it’s prepared. That means the heat is cranked up for more of a charred flavour on the thighs, oyster, or belly, while the breast is given longer, more controlled heating to obtain the moisture.
The Latin influences come through with the course of a heart chimichurri which enhances the meat’s natural flavours. A signature on the menu is the tebasaki (chicken wings) glazed with Canadian maple syrup and Latin American adobo spice. This skewer, Tokuda says, is one of the most acclaimed in the weeks since the soft opening. The menu also features chicken meatballs, ribeye and the boujiest chicken nuggets you’ll ever have — it’s topped with caviar.
These courses are paired with a curated beverage program that spotlights sake, ranging from Junmai style to daiginjo style. You’ll also get a taste of the signature Karasu Negroni, made with a sweet potato shōchū.
Karasu’s grand opening is set for November 19, and if the success of the soft opening is any indication, it will be warmly welcomed in Toronto’s downtown.
“This style of yakitori is very new to Toronto and they’re amazed with how grilled chicken can be so different,” he says. “That’s the typical of the comments we get from guests and that’s what we’re really proud of.”