Canadian red wines from $28 to $225 that age well | Canada Voices

Hillebrand Estates made the first vintage of Trius Red in 1989, naming its signature Bordeaux-style blend after the three grape varieties utilized: cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. Wines made with this blend were new to the scene and Canadian-made wines priced at $20 were rarer still.

But Trius Red found success at home and abroad, riding high after winning top honours for its 1991 vintage from the U.K.-based International Wine and Spirit Competition in 1995. The brand’s reputation eclipsed Hillebrand’s cache and the Niagara-on-the-Lake winery was renamed Trius in 2012.

“It’s definitely stood the test of time,” says Trius head winemaker Emma Garner, who got her professional winemaking start at Hillebrand in 2002.

Producing a serious and complex red wine was important to the development of Canada’s wine industry in the 1980s and 1990s. Cabernet-based wines were developed to offer to consumers who were familiar with popular styles from Bordeaux and California.

In the ensuing years, other grape varieties and wine styles coming out of Canadian and international vineyards have risen in stature. Bordeaux-inspired wines are no longer seen as the de facto benchmark for quality as wine lovers have embraced more variety.

Nevertheless, cabernet-merlot blends continue to be one of the most collected categories of Canadian wines.

The 2024 vintage of Trius Red, which celebrates the brand’s 35th anniversary, is based on cabernet and merlot grapes from Niagara-on-the-Lake vineyards. Grapes used for the blend were grown in vineyards owned by the company as well as long-time growers, such as the Falk and Andrews vineyards.

The final blend is determined by tasting the finished wines in barrel and deciding which contribute to making the best Bordeaux-style red wine possible, Garner explains.

Since 1999, the winemaking team has also produced Trius Grand Red, which gets the first choice of barrels from each vintage. Both wines are made to be ready to drink upon release, but with the potential to mature in bottle over time.

“While we have riper fruit to work with today than when Trius Red was first made, age-ability is still at the core of what we are looking for,” Garner says.

The new vintage of Trius Red is reviewed this week alongside other serious Bordeaux-influenced wines produced in Ontario and British Columbia. These five producers drew inspiration from classically made French wines but have managed to chart their own path by finding how to effectively grow grapes and make wine in their respective regions.

Trius Red has an established winemaking program that brings a mid-priced wine ($27.95 in Ontario) to market, while other properties look to make grander statements with iconic red wines. Today’s roundup features some of the most expressive examples I’ve tasted recently, including some of the most expensive bottles produced in the country.

Hester Creek The Judge 2022 (Canada), $49.99

Rating: 93

The Bordeaux-style red blend, Garland, ranks as Hester Creek’s flagship wine. Named after the winery’s late owner, Curtis Garland, the cabernet-based wine was introduced in 2018 to celebrate the Okanagan winery’s 50th anniversary. Hester Creek’s premium range also includes The Judge, a ripe and complex red fashion from merlot, cabernets franc and sauvignon and petit verdot, that has been a standout since the inaugural 2007 vintage. The 2022 release makes the most of its silky and polished texture. A core of dark fruit, cedar and savoury flavours make for a wine that’s drinking now and has the structure to age. This has 14.2 per cent ABV and 0.5 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2037. Available direct, hestercreek.com.

Mission Hill Oculus 2021 (Canada), $225

Rating: 95

Since its introduction with the 1997 vintage, Oculus has evolved to become one of Canada’s most ambitious wines, with a price to match. Famous Bordeaux consultant Michel Rolland advised Mission Hill on upgrading its cellar and approach to position this Okanagan red wine as a premium offering by any global standard. The 2021 vintage effectively conveys the rich fruit character of the southern Okanagan as part of a focused wine with firm but smooth tannins, good vigour and length. Tasted over the course of a few days, this continued to impress with its elegance and length. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2040. Available at the above price direct, missionhillwinery.com, $225.99 in British Columbia.

Painted Rock Red Icon 2021 (Canada), $79.99

Rating: 93

Red Icon is Painted Rock’s flagship red blend based on merlot and cabernet franc, with small additions of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot, all grown on the 56-hectare property. The finished wine sports a firm texture, thanks to polished tannins that grip at this early stage of development, and a distinctive Okanagan flavour profile of dark fruit and sage, with spice and floral aromas contributing to the harmonious character. This has 14.6 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2031. Available at the above price direct, paintedrock.ca, $85.99 in British Columbia.

Stone Eagle Red 2020 (Canada), $149.80

Rating: 93

The Stone Eagle label was created by Two Sisters Winery with a red blend from the 2012 vintage made to showcase the best of Niagara. Since then, Stone Eagle has expanded its range and moved into a dedicated winery on Niagara Stone Road. This richly concentrated red wine from the hot and dry 2020 vintage shows admirable ripeness and intensity from start to finish without losing its vitality or balance. This has 14.9 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price direct, stoneeaglewinery.com.

Trius Red 2024 (Canada), $27.95

Rating: 90

The 35th anniversary edition of Trius Red reveals a plush, dark and juicy character, pairing dark-berry fruits with cocoa nibs and spice flavours. The rich and concentrated style is made for mass appeal – that sweet oak note really stands out, which means there isn’t much complexity at this early stage of development. This has 13.2 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26 direct, triuswines.com.