I’d never actually been to Charlevoix, Quebec, but the region had been on my radar for years. Its sea-and-mountain scenery, tiny villages, arts scene and local food culture had always made it look like the kind of place I’d love.
What surprised me was that, despite being less than four hours from Montreal, it still seemed relatively under the radar. Even my cousin from the city had never been. For somewhere that looked like such an idyllic weekend getaway from Montreal, Charlevoix felt a little like a genuine hidden gem.
So when my husband Steve and I found ourselves heading west from the Maritimes in a campervan with our two dogs this summer, I finally had a chance to see whether Charlevoix lived up to the picture I’d created from afar.
After three nights there, I can say it did — but what surprised me most was how easy and affordable it was to experience without the summer crowds I’d expected.
A free front-row seat on night one
Views from the ferry and the waterfront in Saint-Siméon.
Emma Caplan-Fisher | MTL Blog
We crossed the St. Lawrence on the Rivière-du-Loup–Saint-Siméon ferry, pleased that we’d timed the scenic sail perfectly for sunset.
The crossing took just over an hour, and we rolled into the Charlevoix region with no plan for where to sleep. I’d read about travellers staying in the ferry parking lot for free, and when we arrived, several vans were already set up for the night. We parked the van at the Saint-Siméon terminal and called it a night.
The next morning, we woke up to an incredible view over the St. Lawrence and a nearly empty, dog-friendly beach just steps from where we’d slept. Considering it was a hot summer weekend, I fully expected we’d be fighting for space on the beach, but there was hardly anyone around.
A free ferry to Tadoussac and its famous dunes
Hôtel Tadoussac and the massive dunes overlooking the St. Lawrence estuary.
Emma Caplan-Fisher | MTL Blog
From Saint-Siméon, we drove about 40 km north to Baie-Sainte-Catherine, where we boarded the ferry across the Saguenay River to Tadoussac.
The Baie-Sainte-Catherine–Tadoussac ferry was free — another pleasant surprise after we’d spent the previous night parked for free at the Saint-Siméon terminal.
Once in Tadoussac, a historic village known for whale watching, we wandered around town, taking in the scenery, the iconic Hôtel Tadoussac and the local market.
Then we continued about 5 km northeast to check out one of the area’s biggest natural attractions: Les Dunes de Tadoussac.
Carved by glacial melt roughly 10,000 years ago, the massive dunes tower over the St. Lawrence estuary and end at a large sandy beach. Parking there was free, too, continuing what was becoming a bit of a theme on our Charlevoix road trip.
The dunes themselves were impressive — although my fear of heights kicked in pretty quickly. I left Steve to tackle the wide-open, steep descent down the sand while I happily took the sturdy staircase instead.
We spent some time soaking up the views from the shoreline before making our way back up and hiking the 800-metre Estuary Trail to the top, which delivered a bit of exercise and another dramatic view over the area.
A $25-a-night stay with a river view
Settling in for the night at La Descente in Charlevoix.
Emma Caplan-Fisher | MTL Blog
For nights two and three, we set up at La Descente, an affordable camping spot in Charlevoix along the Côte des Éboulements, with sweeping views of the St. Lawrence and L’Isle-aux-Coudres just offshore.
It cost us about $25 a night and, once we’d chosen a spot, we could pay via QR code. It also put us just minutes from the ferry dock for L’Isle-aux-Coudres.
Being able to show up without a reservation during tourist season was another pleasant surprise. The area was quiet and had clean washrooms, and we noticed other RVs as well as people set up to sleep in their vehicles. It certainly felt like an easy place to land at the last minute.
Biking L’Isle-aux-Coudres without the crowds
Cycling and café stops on L’Isle-aux-Coudres.
Emma Caplan-Fisher | MTL Blog
The next morning brought another free ferry. We drove onto the ferry from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive to L’Isle-aux-Coudres, an island in the middle of the St. Lawrence known for cycling. Like the crossing to Tadoussac, this one was free and didn’t require a reservation.
We happened to have bikes with us, but if you don’t, there’s a rental spot, Vélo-Coudres, about eight minutes by car from the ferry.
We spent a fabulous morning cycling the scenic 23-kilometre loop road around the island, with a few decent hills thrown in for a solid lower-body workout. I made sure we stopped at some of the cute cafés and boutiques along the way, which ended up being a big part of the island’s appeal.
While Steve patiently waited, I took my time browsing Charlotte’s playful, colourful clothing, accessories and home decor.
After the ride, we rewarded ourselves with coffee and snacks at La Fabrique de l’Isle. The place was full of character, housed in a beautiful former presbytery from the 1930s with an artisan market and plenty of comfy lawn seating.
And again, I kept watching for crowds to show up. They never really did.
A budget picnic from Charlevoix’s Route des Saveurs
A stop along Charlevoix’s Route des Saveurs.
Emma Caplan-Fisher | MTL Blog
Back on the mainland, we spent part of the afternoon exploring a stretch of the Route des Saveurs, Charlevoix’s flavour trail linking more than 80 local farms, cheesemakers, cideries, distilleries and other producers across the region.
Rather than sitting down for a pricier restaurant meal, we stopped at a few local producers to build our own picnic. One was La Famille Migneron de Charlevoix, an artisanal cheesemaker that’s been operating since 1994.
We picked up cheese, bread and a few other odds and ends along the way, then took everything back to our camp spot to eat with a view.
It was simple but felt very local and became one of my favourite parts of the trip — without the price tag of eating out for another meal.
Baie-Saint-Paul’s big charm on a small budget
The quiet beach and waterfront in Saint-Siméon.
Emma Caplan-Fisher | MTL Blog
Our Charlevoix detour wrapped up in Baie-Saint-Paul, a village known for its arts scene, with galleries, boutiques and public art scattered throughout its lively streets.
We grabbed breakfast at Mousse Café, inside the Maison Mère heritage site. The café was airy and spacious, with board games and surprisingly affordable prices for a sit-down breakfast.
Before leaving town, we walked off breakfast with a waterfront stroll through Boisé du Quai park — yet another scenic stop in a weekend full of them.
My verdict
The campervan parked beside the beach in Saint-Siméon, Quebec.
Emma Caplan-Fisher | MTL Blog
At roughly an hour from Quebec City and less than four hours from Montreal, Charlevoix makes for an accessible road trip or weekend getaway from either city.
The region is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, with a landscape shaped in part by an ancient meteorite impact that left behind dramatic hills, cliffs and valleys.
Yet across three nights there on a hot summer weekend, we never booked a reservation, never paid for parking at a beach or dune lookout and took two ferries without spending a cent.
For a place so close to major cities with that much natural drama packed into it, I assumed it would come with crowds and costs to match. Instead, it felt like one of the best-kept secrets in the province. It delivered the “wow” factor I’d expect from a much pricier destination, without the matching price tag.
If you’re looking for a weekend getaway that feels like an escape, I absolutely think Charlevoix deserves to be high on your list.
Editor’s note: Emma Caplan-Fisher works with MTL Blog on sponsored content, but this story is entirely editorial and based on her personal experience. No destination, business or organization featured in this article sponsored, commissioned or influenced the story.
The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of Narcity Media.