The release of a new Dom Pérignon vintage is always newsworthy, but the 2017 vintage comes with more drama and intrigue than usual. It is the last release overseen by veteran cellar master Richard Geoffroy, who retired after 28 years at the helm, and comes from a challenging growing season. Spring frosts, extreme heat and heavy rains contributing to widespread grape rot, particularly with the pinot noir and meunier varieties, across Champagne.
Most Champagne houses used 2017’s reduced harvest for its non-vintage blends. Geoffroy’s team homed in on the healthiest parcels of grapes and relied on rigorous sorting of the crop to produce an exceptional sparkling wine worthy of Dom Pérignon’s iconic name, but the production was only 15 per-cent of a normal release.
Dom Pérignon’s commitment to producing only top-of-the-line, vintage-dated Champagnes has driven the winemaker to continually refine its techniques while preserving a distinctive house style.
Since its launch in 1936, with the 1921 vintage, the brand has embraced technological advances, including temperature control during fermentation and changes in the types and sizes of vessels used for fermentation and aging. At the same time, its team has focused on identifying the best parcels of chardonnay and pinot noir grapes among the more than 1,000 hectares of vineyards controlled by its owner, Moët and Chandon.
The quality of Dom Pérignon stems from the crucial blend of the base still wines that undergo secondary fermentation in the bottle before release. The aim is to produce a cuvée that’s delicious from release but which can also be aged for up to 30 years for late-release versions known as Plénitude 2 and Plénitude 3.
Vincent Chaperon took charge of the cellars at Dom Pérignon in 2019, following a 13-year apprenticeship working alongside Geoffroy. His first vintage, the 2018, was launched in European markets in September.
The 2017 vintage of Dom Pérignon is recommended this week alongside some other collectible wines that have been released in the lead-up to the holiday season.
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2021 (Italy), $74.95
Rating: 93
First produced in 1972, Altesino’s classic Brunello label is produced from 100 per-cent sangiovese grown in vineyards around region and aged in a mix of large format oak containers for more than three years to contribute to the wine’s supple texture and concentrated character.
The 2021 is based around a core of plum and cherry fruit with cedar, tobacco and savoury notes.
The style is elegant and refined, with integrated structure and a refreshing finish.
This has 14.5 per-cent alcohol by volume and 3 grams a litre residual sugar.
Drink now to 2035.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $68.99 in British Columbia (2020 vintage), $78.75 in Quebec.
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 (Argentina), $23.95
Rating: 90
Catena produces this classically styled cabernet from grapes grown in Mendoza’s premium winegrowing regions, Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo.
It has a firm and refreshing character, with pure cassis and cherry fruit flavours that gain complexity from cocoa and licorice notes.
This is drinking nicely now and has potential to age. Decant for best enjoyment.
This has 13.5 per-cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s.
Drink now to 2032.
Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $24.99 in Manitoba, $23.60 in Quebec, $28.99 in Nova Scotia, $25.99 in Prince Edward Island, $27.16 in Newfoundland.
Dom Pérignon 2017 (France), $359.95
Rating: 97
The final chapter from Richard Geoffroy’s tenure as cellar master of Dom Pérignon, this 2017 vintage is the smallest release in the house’s modern history and stands out for its unusual chardonnay-dominant blend (62 per-cent).
It offers a rich and inviting aroma, suggesting a mix of pastry crust, custard and lemon zest rounded out by smoke and lime blossom.
On the palate, this is medium-bodied with impressive texture and structure based on a core of vibrant fruit (dried apricot, orange) with floral and salty notes on the lingering finish.
It’s enjoyable now and promises to mature gracefully in the bottle.
This has 12.5 per-cent ABV and 4.5 g/litre r.s.
Drink now to 2040.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $329.95 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $389.99 in Manitoba, $360 in Quebec, $344.99 in New Brunswick, $351.99 in Prince Edward Island, $396.90 in Newfoundland.
Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2024 (Italy), $84.95
Rating: 93
Le Serre Nuove is the second wine of the Ornellaia estate in Bolgheri.
It’s made from the same grape varieties, based on merlot with cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and cabernet franc, and aged in oak barrels for 15 months prior to bottling.
The result in the 2024 vintage is a complex and concentrated red wine based on spicy and savoury flavours. The wine’s mix of ripe and vibrant flavours contribute to its overall refreshing and age-worthy character.
This has 14.5 per-cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s.
Drink now to 2040.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $79.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $99.99 in Manitoba (2021 vintage), $84.50 in New Brunswick, $80.99 in Nova Scotia.
Nautilus Chardonnay 2024 (New Zealand), $33.95
Rating: 92
New Zealand chardonnays like this one continue to impress with their complexity and character, drawing favourable comparisons with ones made in Burgundy.
This wine’s blend of pear and citrus fruit flavours is enhanced by earthy, toasty and spicy notes and its medium to full-bodied style strikes a winning balance between a rich, creamy texture and a refreshing lemony acidity.
This has 14 per-cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s.
Drink now to 2030.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $39.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta.
Tinhorn Creek Reserve Merlot 2022 (Canada), $44.95
Rating: 91
Tinhorn Creek has enjoyed tremendous success with merlot in its Okanagan Valley vineyards.
The 2022 vintage is a complex and concentrated expression, with a generous character on the palate.
The texture is rounded and complete thanks to a core of ripe fruit and cola flavours that contribute to a rich and mello character that makes this a red wine to savour.
This has 14.5 per-cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s.
Drink now to 2032.
Available at the above price in Ontario, $38 direct, tinhorn.com, various prices in Alberta, $39.99 in Manitoba.