Riesling grapes were one of the first varieties to produce exceptional wines in Canadian vineyards.TIMM REICHERT/Reuters
The first documented record of riesling came from a cellar log of Count Katzenelnbogen near in the Rheingau region on March 13, 1435. The grape variety’s exact origin remains a mystery, but a notation of the sale of “riesslingen” vines was significant enough for the marketing team at Wines of Germany to declare that date as riesling’s birthday.
Often mispronounced (it’s “REES-ling”) and misunderstood, riesling can use any sales boost it can get. Not all wines made from the variety are sweet, for starters. The variety produces wide-ranging styles of wine in its native Germany as well as Alsace in France, Australia and elsewhere.
The variety was one of the first to produce exceptional wines in Canadian vineyards, thanks to early efforts from Cave Spring, Thirty Bench and Vineland Estates in Niagara and Gehringer, Gray Monk and Wild Goose in the Okanagan. Those wineries continue to produce distinctive expressions that are worth seeking out.
Along with any of them, here are three Canadian releases to toast riesling’s fruity and fun-to-drink personality on its birthday.
Fielding Riesling 2023 (Canada), $16.95
Rating: 90
Produced with riesling grapes from three vineyards across Niagara, this friendly expression showcases citrus (lime and lemon), peach and honey with a harmonious combination of delicate sweetness and zesty acidity. This wine is a pure representation of the penetrating sweet-tart style of Niagara riesling at an affordable price. It is a complete wine with refreshing flavours, nice complexity and decent structure. This has 10.5 per cent ABV and 20 g/litre r.s. Drink now-2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Joiefarm En Famille Whitfield Vineyard Riesling 2023 (Canada), $32.99
Rating: 91
This single-vineyard white comes from Whitfield Vineyard in Summerland, the 2023 vintage presents a juicy mix of citrus and peach with fragrant floral notes. Firm acidity helps to balance the wine’s natural sweetness and concentrated fruity character. This has 13.1 per cent ABV and 14 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available in British Columbia.
Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2022 (Canada), $43.48
Rating: 94
Consistently one of the Okanagan’s most distinctive white wines, Tantalus Old Vines Riesling is made from vines planted on the estate in 1978. The aromas suggest a mix of floral and citrus fruit, with ripe nectarine and lemon curd flavours balanced by wet stone and chalky notes on the lingering finish. The focused and intense style is delicious now; more complexity and a honeyed character will develop with cellaring. This has 13 per cent ABV and 7.1 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2035. Available direct, tantalus.ca, various prices in Alberta.
