There are so many buzzy skincare ingredients—peptides, hypochlorous acid and did we say peptides? But if you ask dermatologists, there’s one label green flag that’s like the little black dress of skincare: Sun Protection Factor, better known as SPF. While you can find SPF in products like tinted moisturizers, sunscreen is where you’ll get the best coverage, and it’s a foundation of any healthy skincare routine.
“Sunscreen should be a non-negotiable part of your daily routine if you’re serious about protecting your skin against premature aging and skin cancer,” Dr. Melanie Palm, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Art of Skin MD, tells Parade.
Yet, just like with creams and cleansers, the sunscreen market is mighty crowded.
“It can be overwhelming to go to the sunscreen aisle and have no idea what to purchase,” empathizes Dr. Tanya S. Nino, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist and the Melanoma Program Director at the Center for Cancer Prevention and Treatment at Providence St. Joseph Hospital. “There are so many options to choose from, and each is marketing its own special spin.”
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There are differences between sunscreens, though, and some are better than others. “Understanding how to read labels and choose the right sunscreen for your skin can make a huge difference in both protection and whether you’ll actually wear it consistently,” says Dr. Palm. “For people with sensitive skin, melasma, rosacea or ingredient sensitivities, choosing the right formula becomes even more important because the wrong product can sometimes worsen irritation or pigmentation issues.”
When you don’t wear sunscreen, your odds of getting a painful sunburn now—and, real talk, skin cancer later—go up. Plus, dermatologists say one type of sunscreen doesn’t provide enough protection against either. For this reason, it’s the one sunscreen three dermatologists said they’d never wear. They shed light on their choice below.
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Dermatologists tell Parade that they would never wear a sunscreen that isn’t marked “broad-spectrum.”
“A broad-spectrum sunscreen blocks both UVA and UVB [rays], so you will get better protection when the sunscreen is labeled as broad spectrum,” Dr. Nino says.
Two other dermatologists agree, including Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, MD, Ph.D.
“There are different types of UV radiation, and it is important to understand how to protect against both,” Dr. Kazlouskaya says.
That way, you can make sure you protect yourself from both, which sunscreen that isn’t broad spectrum won’t do.
“UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin and contribute to DNA damage and premature aging,” Dr. Kazlouskaya says. “The visible effects of UVA exposure often appear gradually over years and include photoaging, wrinkles, pigmentation changes and collagen degradation. UVA radiation also plays an important role in…age-related pigment changes.”
UVB rays affect the “superficial” skin layers, but that doesn’t mean they’re less harmful. For starters, she says that UVB rays are the main cause of sunburns, and both types of UV rays can contribute to the development of skin cancers.
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It’s no wonder dermatologists skip sunscreen that isn’t broad-spectrum. Dr. Palm adds that people with melasma, hyperpigmentation and rosacea will especially want to ensure they choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
“UVA exposure can worsen these skin conditions,” Dr. Palm explains. “People who also receive laser or microneedling treatments and/or use retinoids, actives—BHAs, AHAs and others—will have more photosensitive skin, which requires broad-spectrum protection from the sun.”
The good news is that it’s super easy to tell if your sunscreen is broad-spectrum.
“The most obvious way to tell if a sunscreen is broad-spectrum is to search for ‘broad spectrum SPF’ on the label,” she reports. “In the U.S., products that meet FDA standards for UVA and UVB protection are required to say ‘broad spectrum’ on the packaging. Another clue is looking at the list of active ingredients. UV filters like zinc oxide and avobenzone provide UVA protection.”
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6 More Expert-Backed Sunscreen Tips
Opting for a broad-spectrum sunscreen is the first step to ensuring it protects you. But you may wonder, “How much SPF do I really need?” and “What’s the best sunscreen for acne-prone skin?”
Dermatologists answer all of those questions and more.
1. Ensure your sunscreen has enough SPF
Dr. Palm advises that people use a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. “That said, there are diminishing returns when you get into the higher SPF numbers,” she explains. “For example, SPF 30 gives you about 97% protection, whereas SPFs 80 to 100 only bump up that protection to 98.5%.”
2. Find your formula
Once you get the broad-spectrum and SPF down, much of sunscreen selection comes down to personal preferences. There are two main sunscreens in the U.S.: mineral and chemical.
“Mineral sunscreens contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, while chemical sunscreens use synthetic UV filters,” Dr. Kazlouskaya states. “Neither is inherently better, but mineral sunscreens are often considered a good option for children and for people with sensitive or allergy-prone skin because they may be less irritating.”
Dr. Palm agrees. She adds that acne-prone or oily skin types often do best with lightweight, non-comedogenic formulations.
“Mature skin can tolerate thicker formulas with moisturizing ingredients,” she says.
Ultimately, “The best sunscreen is the one you will actually use consistently, so texture and feel on the skin matter,” Dr. Kazlouskaya states.
3. Consider your water/sweat-resistant needs
Are you planning to dive into a pool or run a 5K at 9 a.m.? Water or sweat-resistant sunscreens are your best bet. (Dr. Nino points out that “water-resistant” is an intentional word choice.)
“Sunscreens are no longer able to claim that they are waterproof,” Dr. Nino says. “The label should specify whether it is water resistant for 40 minutes or 80 minutes.”
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4. Set a timer
Sunscreen isn’t set-it-or-forget-it. You’ll need to reapply regularly, even if you’re not swimming or working out.
“In the absence of swimming or sweating, sunscreen needs to be applied every two hours,” Dr. Nino reports. “If you are going to be swimming or playing sports, you will want to choose a sunscreen that is water-resistant for 80 minutes.”
5. Apply enough sunscreen to your skin
OK, how much sunscreen do you need to apply? It’s a good question—and Dr. Palm says people often guess incorrectly.
“The majority of people don’t realize they’re underapplying sunscreen, so the amount you apply and how frequently you’re applying matters. For the face and neck, I tell my patients to measure two finger lengths of product, or roughly a nickel-sized amount.”
She shares that you’ll need about 1 oz. of sunscreen (aka one shot glass) to cover the exposed skin. “Don’t forget areas like the tops of your feet and hands, your ears, lips, behind your neck and calves and the hair part on your scalp,” she adds.
6. Avoid sprays if possible
Dr. Nino tends to steer clear of sprays.
“It is unclear if it is safe to inhale the ingredients in spray sunscreens,” Dr. Nino says. “In addition, I see more patients with sunburns due to incomplete application when they are using a spray. Also, it is harder to reconstitute the ingredients with a spray. A cream sunscreen will ensure more even application.”
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Sources:
- Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, MD, Ph.D., a dermatologist
- Dr. Melanie Palm, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Art of Skin MD
- Dr. Tanya S. Nino, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist and the Melanoma Program Director at the Center for Cancer Prevention and Treatment at Providence St. Joseph Hospital
- Tips to Stay Safe in the Sun: From Sunscreen to Sunglasses. FDA.
