More than 30 years after opening his first Nobu in New York, chef Nobu Matsuhisa now has more than 60 restaurants worldwide, including Nobu Toronto at 25 Mercer St. We sat down with him at his two-year anniversary party — a star-studded affair including some notable Raptors and Leafs — to talk about the city, success and why a smiling guest is his real Michelin star.
You’re celebrating two years of Nobu in Toronto. How does it feel?
After two years, the regular customers keep coming back. That means people like it. The same customers keep coming, and then their children come and bring all their friends. Now a lot of young people come to Nobu.
Do Michelin stars matter to you? What does success mean today?
My Michelin star is when customers come, start eating and drinking, and then start smiling and laughing. That is my Michelin star. I was never looking for a title. A title is just a title. I like customers to come to the restaurant, enjoy the food and enjoy their time.
People say you changed how the world eats Japanese food. What change are you most proud of?
Forty or 50 years ago, people didn’t really like raw fish. They thought it would have a fishy smell and taste. But I was born and grew up in Japan, where the fish is always fresh. Now young people love it, and I helped educate and inspire people about how to eat raw fish.
Everyone knows the Black Cod Miso. What else should a first-time guest try?
I have so many signature dishes. Black cod, yes. Also yellowtail jalapeño, sashimi salad, tiradito, rock shrimp tempura and our special sushi rolls. Some people come three or four times a week, so they can choose a different menu every time. Sometimes a guest asks me, “Chef, can you make something special?” We always talk to the guest and try to make what they want.
What’s your favourite dish to cook at home?
I never cook at home because I have a private chef. She’s my wife! She’s not a professional cook, but we’ve been married a long, long time. She knows what I want to eat, so I don’t even need to ask.
Ramen or udon?
Ramen is not traditional. Ramen basically comes from China. I like something cleaner. Everything comes from umami. Umami flavour with rice, that is what I want to eat. Very simple.
Have you tried a Toronto street dog yet?
Actually, not yet. I want to get to know Toronto better. The restaurant opened two years ago, and now the beautiful hotel [Nobu Hotel Toronto] is open. From now on, I’d like to learn more about Toronto’s cultures and what kind of food people want.