Although spring has officially arrived, the lingering chill in the air and the occasional flurries or cold rain might suggest otherwise. When it comes to choosing wines for this time of year, I’m mostly thinking of styles that will see off the last of winter, especially robust red wines with structure and complexity.
A great example is the Poplar Grove CSM 2022, an exciting and flavourful red wine produced by a family-run estate. It is currently available from LCBO Vintages outlets, the winery itself and private wine stores in Alberta. This wine is a successful combination of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and syrah with unique sage notes, characteristic of grapes from vineyards in the southern Okanagan.
Poplar Grove’s vibrant and youthful pinot gris, also recommended this week, has a different character. It’s perfect for celebrating the increasingly brighter and longer days. I’ll open both bottles for gatherings over the long weekend, offering a burst of refreshment or comforting richness depending on people’s tastes.
Good Taste: Are wines sold by the glass at restaurants the best deal?
Château Plantey Pauillac 2020 (France), $34.95
Rating: 90
This flavourful, well-structured red wine is a blend of equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot, produced by a Cru Bourgeois estate in Pauillac. The Cru Bourgeois classification system, which is based on blind tasting and other criteria, governs the Médoc region of Bordeaux and is renewed every five years. This wine has a ripe blackcurrant flavour, balanced by youthful tannins and refreshing acidity, which contribute to its age-worthy character. For best enjoyment, decant if you plan to drink it now. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available in Ontario.
Giant Steps Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2024 (Australia), $39.95
Rating: 93
Established in 1998, Giant Steps is one of Australia’s leading producers of chardonnay and pinot noir from the Yarra Valley region. This introductory label blends chardonnay grapes from the winery’s own vineyards and those purchased from across the region. The grapes are hand-picked and sorted in the vineyard before being pressing and fermented in 500-litre French oak puncheons. The result is a stylish white wine, offering a blend of citrus, apple and nectarine flavours, enhanced by hints of toast, nuts and earth. It is a satisfying wine at a great price for its quality. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2039. Available at the above price in Ontario, $44.99 in British Columbia, $46.50 in Quebec (2023 vintage).
Marqués de Cáceres Reserva 2019 (Spain), $26.95
Rating: 91
Marqués de Cáceres Reserva is a blend of tempranillo and other grape varieties from older vineyards in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. It has a firm, ripe and balanced style, with an appealing mix of dark fruit and oak-derived flavours, notably vanilla and spice. This is a fine example of the robust yet approachable character of Rioja red wines to drink now. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $31.99 in Manitoba, $26.50 in Quebec (2020 vintage), $31.49 in Prince Edward Island.
Poplar Grove CSM 2022 (Canada), $34.95
Rating: 92
CSM is Poplar Grove’s red blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah (with a touch of malbec) sourced from vineyards in Osoyoos and Penticton. Each component was harvested, fermented and aged separately before blending. This rich and flavourful wine presents a mix of sweet and tart berry fruits with cedar, sage and peppery spice notes, making it an excellent choice for barbecues. This has 14.2 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2035. Available at the above price in Ontario, $29.99 direct, poplargrove.ca, various prices in Alberta.
Poplar Grove Pinot Gris 2025 (Canada), $23.49
Rating: 89
This is the youngest Poplar Grove Pinot Gris I have tasted, made with grapes harvested in September and early October of last year. It is still tightly wound, with citrus and pear fruit flavours complemented by grassy, herbal notes that give it a light, refreshing character reminiscent of sauvignon blanc. However, the purity and intensity of fruit make it a terrific aperitif or food-friendly wine that is sure to impress. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 1 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $21.99 direct, poplargrove.ca, various prices in Alberta.
Terra d’Aligi Tatone Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2022 (Italy), $18
Rating: 88
A modern, full-bodied expression of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Tatone displays rich notes of prune and fruitcake as part of its layered, liqueur-like character. Floral, vanilla and coffee notes add complexity to its robust style. This is easy to appreciate thanks to fruit concentration and an integrated fruit-acid balance. This has 14 per cent ABV and 7 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.99 in Manitoba.
Seven red wines from $18 to $60 to savour at the dinner table
Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio 2024 (Italy), $21.95
Rating: 91
Tiefenbrunner is one of the oldest wine producers in South Tyrol, in northern Italy. It is currently managed by members of the fourth and fifth generations of the family. They cultivate 12 grape varieties in vineyards ranging in elevation from 200 to 1,000 metres, producing a total of 28 different wines in total. The expressive and refreshing pinot grigio is a particular standout among their offerings. Concentrated citrus, pear and melon fruit combine with herbal and nutty notes to create this dry, distinctive white wine, which presents pinot grigio in its best light. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Viña Cobos Felino Malbec 2024 (Argentina), $20.95
Rating: 92
Veteran Californian winemaker Paul Hobbs is responsible for Viña Cobos, which focuses on premium wine-growing regions in the Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo for its portfolio of single-vineyard wines. Felino is Cobos’s introductory range, offering a selection of well-crafted wines made from classic grape varieties. The latest Felino Malbec release showcases intense malbec character, with a core of concentrated, juicy fruit complemented by spicy and savoury notes that contribute to a lingering finish. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2034. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
