David Kurka, manager and sommelier, serves guests at The Restaurant at Unsworth.Supplied by Unsworth Vineyards/Supplied
Impressed by the quality and distinctiveness of the wines produced from Vancouver Island’s coastal vineyards, Barbara Banke, chairman and proprietor of Jackson Family Wines, and her daughter Julia Jackson bought Unsworth from the Turyk family six years ago. Since then, they have expanded production and enhanced the visitor experience at the Mill Bay winery.
Last year, updates were completed to the winery and cellar – which now has separate halls for red and white wine and redesigned crush pad – and tasting room and adjacent patio.
The final improvement is the reopening of The Restaurant at Unsworth after extensive renovations. Located in the early-1900s farmhouse on the property, the new space has seating for 74 people indoors and a patio with space for an additional 50 guests, weather permitting, typically from the long weekend in May to Thanksgiving.
Chris Turyk, the son of original owners Tim and Colleen Turyk, and Unsworth’s current sales and marketing director, explains the new design works to blend the indoor and outdoor spaces. “The windows open wide so every table inside has a view to the outside,” he says.
“As someone who helped build this business, I’m extremely proud of what they have done. The attention to detail is very high.”
Unsworth Vineyards in Mill Bay, B.C.Supplied by Unsworth Vineyards/Supplied
The Unsworth winery operates independently of the Jackson family’s extensive portfolio of wineries, which includes acclaimed properties in California, Bordeaux and Tuscany. It was a private purchase. However, the family’s larger enterprise is naturally influencing the new direction.
For instance, the restaurant’s farm-to-table menu is inspired by the culinary program at Kendall-Jackson, the family’s popular winery in Santa Rosa, Calif. An extensive on-site garden provides Unsworth’s chefs with seasonal produce for menu planning.
“They want to establish a similar food and wine experience here,” Turyk explains.
Oysters are also a key feature of the expanded menu, with a wine and oyster flight available alongside a seasonal selection served raw or roasted. Either way, they are sure to be complemented by the Prosecco-inspired Charme de L’ile, a regionally specific sparkling wine produced by Unsworth and other Cowichan Valley wineries.
Open daily for lunch and dinner all year round, the restaurant hopes to become a destination restaurant for residents of Victoria, which is a 40-minute drive, and to be embraced by the 50,000 people living in the Cowichan Valley.
Julia Jackson and other second- and third-generation members of the California-based winemaking clan purchased Blue Grouse, one of the island’s oldest vineyards, located in Duncan, in December, 2022.
There are 17 wineries operating on Vancouver Island that take advantage of the long, cool growing season to produce a range of red, white and sparkling wines from more than 90 different grape varieties. The mild climate works especially well for pinot noir and pinot gris, which are widely planted, as well as chardonnay and aromatic varieties, such as ortega and siegerrebe.
This week’s featured recommendations include two different takes on Vancouver Island’s unique sparkling wine label, Charme de L’ile, from Unsworth and Blue Grouse, alongside three other wines made in British Columbia.
Black Sage Vineyard Shiraz 2022 (Canada), $32.99
Rating: 91
A small addition of viognier adds to the complex and charming character of this ripe and harmonious red wine. The aroma and flavours offer a complex array of olive, fig and dark fruit as part of a robust wine that displays the impressive power of the 2022 vintage. This has 14.5 per cent alcohol by volume and 4 grams a litre residual sugar. Drink now to 2030. Available in British Columbia.
Blue Grouse Charme de l’île Sparkling (Canada), $28.99
Rating: 90
Made in an intensely aromatic style, this vibrant and flavourful sparkling wine from Vancouver Island suggests a mix of pear, green apple, and melon flavours. The blend of ortega, schönburger, pinot gris and bacchus contribute to the wine’s zesty character and refreshing finish. It’s a stylish aperitif or bottle to bring to the dinner table. This has 12 per cent ABV and 8 g/litre r.s. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $29.99 direct, bluegrouse.ca, various prices in Alberta.
Chronos Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Canada), $34.99
Rating: 91
This is a bright and ripe expression of Okanagan cabernet sauvignon with a core of cassis and dark cherry mixed with herbal and tobacco notes. The just ripe style maintains vibrancy and balance as part of its polished and lifted character. This has 13.7 per cent ABV and 3.5 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available in British Columbia.
Fort Berens Riesling 2025 (Canada), $24.99
Rating: 92
A blend of riesling from two estate vineyard in Lillooet, B.C., this reveals a crowd-pleasing mix of honeyed, floral and fruity flavours. Focused and lingering pear, apple and lime notes stand out in this serious and harmonious expression of riesling. This has 12.8 per cent ABV and 9.7 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in British Columbia.
Rust Wine Co. Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $32.99
Rating: 91
This single-vineyard, barrel-fermented chardonnay comes from the Lost Horn Vineyard in Okanagan Falls. It has a complex and developing character with layers of buttery, honeyed and lemony flavours, and a creamy, soft texture. This has 13 per cent ABV. Drink now. Available in British Columbia, $35 direct, rustwine.com.
Unsworth Charme de l’Île Rosé (Canada), $29.99
Rating: 90
Drawing inspiration from the fresh and fruity character of Prosecco, this expressive rosé from Vancouver Island offers a pleasing mix of red berry, apple and rhubarb notes. The texture and length add to the appeal of the animating aperitif style. This has 11.5 per cent ABV. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $32.90 direct, unsworthvineyards.com.