A model presents the latest Diane von Furstenberg collection during New York Fashion Week in Manhattan, New York City, last week.Caitlin Ochs/Reuters
As the first stop on the international fashion calendar, New York Fashion Week sets the tone for the rest of the season.
The week was a masterclass in tension, with collections that expertly balanced sharp architectural control with raw, fluid emotion. Across the city, designers moved away from familiar trends toward a more thoughtful, considered approach to dressing, where rigid geometry intersected with soft motion on the runway. Building on the structured waistlines of last season, peplum continued to anchor the conversation.
From moody downtown tailoring to vibrant archival revivals, here are the collections that defined the looks of the season.
Khaite: Modern romanticism
In one of the week’s most compelling pivots, creative director Catherine Holstein steered Khaite – a label known for sharp lines and modern minimalism – toward a moody, tactile romanticism.
The shift was unmistakable: Delicate lace, floral appliqués, crinoline skirts and sweeping trapeze silhouettes took centre stage. Inspired by a recent trip to the Gritti Palace in Venice, the collection played with ornate romance by pairing fluid, feminine silhouettes with form-fitting leather jackets. That friction – fragile, poetic elements shown with hard outerwear – proved that contemporary luxury can still be dream-like without losing its edge.
Coach: Lived-in youth culture
A model walks the runway for the Coach fashion show at Basketball City in New York City.Taylor Hill/Getty Images
Marking the brand’s 85th anniversary, creative director Stuart Vevers delivered a collection that was fun, youthful, grungy and distinctly New York.
Grounded in a celebration of the house’s heritage, the presentation leaned on the theme of individuality – a choice reflected in the show’s casting, which embraced the models’ personal style and natural hair textures. That festive, rule-breaking energy carried into the runway’s playful touches, such as models wearing askew birthday hats, and culminated in a striking finale: A sequined dress featuring an oversized bow, its long ribbons trailing behind in a dramatic train.
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Backstage, Vevers credited the collection’s infectious energy to listening to a younger generation who are willing to break rules. That friction, he noted, can feel uncomfortable, but it’s necessary – it’s what keeps his design instincts and the legacy brand moving forward.
Diane von Furstenberg: Graphic prints and sensual fluidity
Models present the latest creations from Diane von Furstenberg. It marks the label’s return to the NYFW runway for the first time in nearly a decade.Caitlin Ochs/Reuters
Marking the label’s return to the New York Fashion Week runway for the first time in nearly a decade, Diane von Furstenberg launched a vibrant new chapter under artistic director Henry Zankov.
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist set an intimate tone from the start, inviting guests to unroll the show notes from inside printed silk scarfs. What followed was an airy, sensual translation of house codes. Zankov’s signature knits featured alongside reimagined wrap dresses with graphic colour blocking, fluid chiffons and bias-cut silks. Brightly hued trouser suits added balanced tailoring that felt polished without ever looking overly rigid – most notably a vividly toned suit paired with a haphazardly tied, logo-printed bow blouse.
Grounded in von Furstenberg’s enduring advice that design is fundamentally about body language, the collection delivered a refreshing, seductive vision of ease.
Michael Kors: Architectural modernism
Models present the latest Michael Kors collection at the Museum of Modern Art Sculpture Garden.Caitlin Ochs/Reuters
Staged in the Museum of Modern Art Sculpture Garden, Michael Kors presented a crisp, joyful study in modernism inspired by the style-conscious art world crowd.
The collection embraced an effortless architectural ease, defined by lean silhouettes, high-impact colour blocking and slim tailoring, signalling a move away from the exaggerated wide-leg trousers of recent seasons. The tomato red and canary yellow dresses captured Kors’s architectural theme, with sharp, modern lines softened by sculptural panels that floated through the garden.
That geometric precision extended to the accessories: Footwear with sharp, angular heels, and circular silver jewellery that resembled modern sculptures on the runway.
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Ashlyn: Construction and structural geometry
Continuing her architectural approach to design, Ashlynn Park grounded her spring collection in visual and structural precision.
Staged inside the minimalist Cristina Grajales Gallery, with custom square scarves resting on every seat and show notes that read, “Circling the square. Body as circle. Fabric as square. Beginning not with the infinite, but the finite,” the presentation was a lesson in considered craftsmanship. Park’s design logic was evident throughout, from skewed collars and asymmetric cuts to structured peplums that added sharp, sculptural volume. Balancing dense, heavily textured surfaces made from tiny sewn squares with lighter, fluid layers, Park proved that rigorous geometric rules can yield striking, wearable modernism.