This year, restaurants across Toronto have been shaking things up with new concepts and chefs bringing their own perspectives to the menu. But when a beloved restaurant makes a change, there’s a lot at stake — especially when a Michelin accolade is on the line.
Enigma Yorkville is one restaurant where the gamble paid off. The upscale eatery retained its Michelin star after bringing on a new executive chef, Zachary Barnes, this summer.
Following chef Quinton Bennett’s departure last year, Barnes took the helm with experience from some of the world’s most respected kitchens, including Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London, Restaurant Daniel in New York and Toronto’s own Alo. For the Toronto native, Enigma’s high standards were part of what drew him back to the city and to the restaurant in the first place.
“The reputation of Enigma is something that I’ve been aware of for a long time. The opportunity to step into a role with that established history of excellence, put my own mark on it and hopefully take the ball and run with it is really what appealed to me,” he says.
With Enigma Yorkville having earned Michelin recognition since the guide launched in Toronto in 2022, Barnes might have felt intimidated stepping into the kitchen. Instead, he says, the high expectations fuelled his ambition.
“Obviously, there is some pressure to achieve the standards I set for myself and my own goals. I’m quite ambitious in terms of what I want to do in my career and how I want to operate a kitchen, so I think the pressure comes more from me personally,” he says. “I think the opportunity to champion a space like this was more exciting than anything.”
While the cuisine remains rooted in tradition, one of the most notable changes since Barnes’ arrival at Enigma Yorkville is the addition of an à la carte menu, offering an alternative to the 10-course tasting menu.
“I love the execution of a tasting menu. It’s a great way for a chef to demonstrate a wide variety of skills and their culinary perspective to diners. It gives us ten courses to have a little bit of variation in what we’re cooking and show the gamut of what I think excellent food is,” he says. “But that duality of having an outlet for people to come in and experience high-level cooking à la carte, as well as executing a tasting menu, I thought was super exciting.”
Barnes believes many restaurants focus on tasting menus to simplify kitchen operations, but at Enigma, the team is working hard to make both formats work. He says they’re proud that the two menus complement each other while continuing to challenge the kitchen staff.
“For most of our guests, a restaurant of this calibre is an experience they plan for many weeks in advance. But having an outlet for people to come and enjoy the food regularly, whether multiple times a week or a few times a month, depending on the individual — that’s a great thing,” Barnes says. “It’s lovely to have a core group of clientele and, as much as we love being part of somebody’s celebration, it’s also great to be part of somebody’s regular dining experience.”
Looking ahead, Barnes says Enigma Yorkville will continue to evolve its cocktail pairings and non-alcoholic beverage menu to complement the tasting menu. The restaurant’s attention to detail paid off, with Enigma retaining its Michelin star at last month’s ceremony. For Barnes, however, the recognition came as no surprise.
“We put energy into achieving that goal. We assessed things afterwards and obviously want to move forward and achieve the next levels for the restaurant. Michelin is something I’ve always respected,” he says. “I’m well aware of what it takes to achieve that standard, and I was confident that we were putting in the work.”