An Interview with ‘The Diplomat’ Costume Designer Jenny Gering

Jenny Gering brings plenty of style to The Diplomat. Unlike Capitol Hill, the world of politics on the Debora Cahn-created series is easy on the eyes. There’s something both realistic and aspirational about the series, in which professionals do their very best and just happen to look their best while doing it.

Especially Kate (Keri Russell) and Hal Wyler (Rufus Sewell) – arguably two of the most dapper characters on television at the moment. Gering has been designing for them and their cutthroat world since season two, always taking a character-driven approach.

“On this show and on any show, a lot of times, to try and get into the head of the actor,” Gering told What’s on Netflix. “I always look at costumes as having their own language. So it’s either armor or it’s vulnerability or it’s romanticism. It’s a way to communicate how they’re feeling.”

She additionally spoke about designing for President Penn and the massive G7 summit in The Diplomat finale. 

For the G7 event for the finale, was that like the Super Bowl of costume designing for this show? You get to design all these world leaders.

It was huge. It was absolutely huge. We were shooting in New York from November through February. But based on actor availability and things like that, we were prepping and fitting some of the actors for episode eight. All we knew was that they would be at the G7 conference. We didn’t know. It wasn’t written yet. So we were essentially prepping for seven and eight from the time we started until we shot it, because at different points throughout while we were in New York, while we were in London, then when we made it to Florence, we were constantly working on it. 

To watch it come together was cathartic. When you’re shooting something, it’s so hard to tell what it is, even though you’re looking at dailies and looking at the monitor. It’s when you’ve got the edit and the music – and it can be absolutely mind-blowing. This lived up to every expectation.

Also, it’s nice to see Hal and Kate in vacation mode in Italy. They look fantastic. Everyone is at their most comfortable to date, right?

Any opportunity to mix it up a little bit is always fun. We had Hal without a tie and we had him in lighter-weight clothing. I mean, these are obviously very subtle changes, but in our world it makes a difference. Kate is wearing a low heel with her suit rather than her usual boot. She has her jacket off. 

I loved what we did with Grace because she was essentially their hostess. And so, she’s wearing this blouse that says, “I’m in Italy and I’m hosting and who wants a Negroni?” So, that made it a lot of fun. Todd is always Todd. He adapts wherever he goes. We put him in a linen shirt and the moment that plane landed, he was like, “Ciao.”

The Diplomat. (L to R) Rufus Sewell as Hal Wyler, Keri Russell as Kate Wyler in episode 407 of The Diplomat. Cr. Erika Kuenka/Netflix © 2026

Bradley looks great this season.

I was super happy. 

But to go back to the conference for a second, that required so much research and so much effort to make sure that each representative of each country looked different with a nod toward their own culture, their own style. It was a big undertaking because we did have the Italian and the French heads of state there and the Japanese, not all of them had lines, but it was important that they all look like they were coming from their own country. And of course, researching all of the aides and the people who usher people in and out. 

It was also hugely important that we had a very strong team working in our background because these things could never happen without them. And so, that made a huge difference. It took a long time to get it right. So I was very proud of all of them.

For the prime minister of Japan versus Italy, what are the subtle differences for you?

We have reference material to lean on. Then there’s tailoring, color, palette, all these things vary from country to country. And so, the cut of a suit, let’s say, that’s considered conservative and appropriate in Japan is potentially different from another country. I just tried to get things right that way in terms of bringing as much realism as possible.

When you read what President Penn reveals and the bomb she drops in that room, what did your mind go to like, all right, well this will be the costume that’s perfect for Grace in this dramatic moment?

I think it was very much in concert with Debora Cahn, her vision of Grace evolving over her arc, let’s say. And so, it was very much about a typical Grace look. She has a very prescribed look from her blouses to her suits and we build all of them. None of them are off the rack, but there was a desire to take things lighter. 

In some ways, I kept thinking of Elizabeth I because she was putting herself into this rarefied place where she’s on a pedestal and no one can touch her. She alienates herself from her own husband, from the people closest to her because she has come to believe that whatever she decides is correct and she’s the only one who knows the right thing to do. And so, there was this otherness to her that sort of like an ivory tower kind of vibe that –

Ivory tower is kind of a perfect description for Allison Janney’s work on the show.

Yes, yes, absolutely. 

She’s clearly dealing with PTSD in season four. Todd mentions how much she’s changed, often in small ways. Did you want a subtle change in her costume to reflect her state of mind or better to keep it as is?

This is a case of the acting and the writing do that work for me. Also, because she is so conscious of appearances, she would be very conscious of maintaining her front, which she was. I didn’t bring in any changes because there was enough with just her behavior.

The Diplomat. (L to R) Ali Ahn as Eidra Park, Ato Essandoh as Stuart Hayford in episode 403 of The Diplomat. Cr. Nick Wall/Netflix © 2026

The finale has maybe the most romantic moment between Eidra and Stuart. They are singing together. He’s helping her with her dress. It’s very tender. How’d you find the right dress for Eidra for that moment?

That was so much fun. They did it just because sometimes they do it for fun. It’s like, let’s see what else we get out of it. So they did a couple of takes, and of course, Ato brought something new and different to each one. But yes, we all love that relationship. Anytime we get quiet time with Stuart and Eidra is so much fun. 

Allie is a dream to dress. Obviously I looked at a lot of different options, but when I saw that pink dress, I thought it’s so soft for her because she usually does wear a lot of color, but it’s an intense color and it’s strong, very strong jewel tones. 

I thought, this woman’s in love and it’s a moment for her. So, the pink really spoke to me because it just had such a soft, beautiful color, and she looked like a princess in it. It was still very much Eidra because it was a column, it had line and structure, but there was a softness to it that I don’t think we’re used to seeing with her.

Usually she’s in her battle armor.

Exactly, exactly. 

How much do you look at the costumes as shields on this show?

On this show and on any show, a lot of times to try and get into the head of the actor, I always look at costumes as having their own language. So, it’s either armor or it’s vulnerability or it’s romanticism. It’s a way to communicate how they’re feeling. 

Specifically on The Diplomat, very much so. In politics, probably almost more than any other “business,” it’s a very prescribed look and it’s a fine line. For Hal’s VP looks, he has to look relatable. He has to look mainstream, somewhat aspirational, but not in a way that will alienate anyone traditional. I mean, there’s a lot of language that has to be communicated with a tie. 

And so, I think that all of these characters, much as they do in real life, much as we all do, use their clothes as uniforms and that they are going into battle, especially Grace. I mean, a woman dealing with power in a man’s world, it’s the same thing. We’ve landed on a look that works for Grace Penn as the president that is not too masculine, not unfeminine, but not too soft. There’s a lot of thought that goes into it.

Are there any female prime ministers that inspired Grace Penn?

I feel like Grace is her own entity, and one would think that, yes, I’ve looked around. I think that worked more in my favor for the new Prime Minister of England, Jodie Whittaker’s character. I think that I referenced more female prime ministers and really tried to keep her somewhat aligned with those looks. Look, Margaret Thatcher was 40 years ago, so… 

Very different style.

It has to make sense, but they did serve as inspiration. But Grace, to me, is truly an original and her own one of a kind, so it didn’t really come into play as much.

When Kate and Todd go to a tailor, they talk about shirt shoulders, their history. How much glee do you get when costumes and presentation are talked about on The Diplomat?

Shirt shoulders, yes, of course. I love it. I’m a geek. I’m a nerd when it comes to that stuff, so I thought it was hilarious. I always appreciate when Debora puts something in the scripts. I love the fact that the scene with Eidra and Stuart when she slides the suitcase over, their little routine of he sits on the suitcase and zips her up. So, that made me very conscious that we would have a dress that allowed us to work with that gag. But anything that brings the costume into the action is fun.

The Diplomat. (L to R) Keri Russell as Kate Wyler, Fausto Maria Sciarappa as Italian PM Bassani, Rufus Sewell as Hal Wyler in episode 408 of The Diplomat. Cr. Nick Wall/Netflix © 2026

How is it talking through character with Keri Russell? What do you two really zero in on?

It’s so great. I mean, luckily for both of us, so much of it is on the page that the scripts really do inform how we need to go forward. But it’s kind of a shorthand at this point. I know her style. I know what types of things she’s drawn to, which happily I’m on the same page. It’s pretty much what I typically like. 

So if anything, what we talk about are what the action in the script will ask for, and will she be able to do it in this particular look? So there’s a scene where she’s been to the science gala with Todd and then has to come home and have a Zoom with the president. At one point she was, I don’t even remember if she did in the end, she was going to throw a jacket, a blazer, a suit jacket over her dress to look more work appropriate. And so, it helped inform how the dress would need to look because she wouldn’t have had time to change, so she just throws this thing over it. So, it’s that kind of thing where we say, “Well, will this work? Will it be easy for you?” 

If she needs to kill some time, it’s like, “Okay, here are your earrings. You can put them on while you’re…” Just to give her some business to work with. I have to say, knock wood, I don’t think there’s ever been a time where I’ve liked something and she hasn’t. I mean, when we try things on, sometimes things don’t work, but we’re usually in agreement.

What do you look to present when Kate and Hal are together? Do you want their colors and costumes to ever complement each other?

That’s the three-dimensional chess that comes when you do a show about people wearing suits and ties, because if you’ve got two people or four people or the G7 conference, it’s a composition. So, you have to be very aware of, is it okay if they’re both in blue suits? Who are they standing next to in the scene? Because what’s that one wearing? 

You always want to have complementary colors and looks just because I do try to see things in a painterly way as these little vignettes. I don’t think it’s come up on this show, but I have done shows where it’s sort of like we’re really trying to send a message with, let’s say it’s a two-person scene. We’re really trying to tell this part of the story, the way they each look.

Have you or do you hope to see people dressed as Hal and Kate for Halloween?

[Laughs] You know what? That is such a good thought. That didn’t occur to me, but I love it and I am. Fingers crossed. I would love it. If anybody needs help coming up with something, get in touch because that is brilliant. I love it.

Being a costume designer, do people have really high expectations of you on the holiday?

I don’t dress up for Halloween.

No?

No, because maybe I feel the pressure, but I definitely get a lot of questions and a lot of, “Do you have time to…”

That could be a good side hustle.

It comes up, you’re right.