The Stewart family, which operates Quails’ Gate Winery in the Okanagan Valley, planted its first pinot noir vines in 1975, which helped establish the grape variety as one of the flagship red wine varieties in B.C.Tamsin Carriere/Supplied
International Pinot Noir Day celebrations on Aug. 18 provide an opportunity to track the grape’s progress in Canadian vineyards. The thin-skinned, temperamental variety’s tendency to rot on the vine in wet or humid weather and other challenges it presents in the vineyards and cellar earned it the nickname The Heartbreak Grape. However, winemakers around the world also lament the notoriously fickle nature of many other grapes, including nebbiolo, riesling and sangioviese. Craig McDonald, Andrew Peller Limited’s executive vice-president of operations who oversees winemaking operations across Canada, once told me: “They can all be heartbreak grapes.”
That said, there is a learning curve when it comes to making quality wines from pinot noir grapes.
Originally from France’s Burgundy region, where almost all red wines are made with it, the variety spread to cooler wine-growing regions in Germany, Australia, New Zealand, the United States and Chile. Today, it’s widely cultivated in regions around the world, with varying degrees of success. If the grapes get too ripe, the resulting wines lose their satisfying fragrance and flavour and end up just tasting like cooked jam.
A key indicator of its potential in Canada is the steadily increasing number of wineries that are now creating compelling wines. At the recent National Wine Awards of Canada, the pinot noir category was the third largest source of medals, after chardonnay and red blends, with 112 medals awarded to the 148 entries.
Three value wines for August entertaining
There are many noteworthy producers to seek out. In British Columbia, pinot noir pioneers Blue Mountain, CedarCreek and Quails’ Gate have been joined by the likes of other specialist producers including 1 Mill Road, Little Engine, Martin’s Lane, Meyer Vineyard, Spearhead and Tantalus.
Ontario’s passion for pinot noir was cultivated by Flat Rock Cellars, Hidden Bench, Lailey, Le Clos Jordanne and Tawse. The roster of names to know in Niagara has expanded to include 16 Mile, Bachelder, Cloudsley, Leaning Post, The Farm, Mason and Westcott.
Elsewhere in Ontario, the wine scene in Prince Edward County was inspired by its potential to make top quality pinot noir (and chardonnay). Check out the light and intense expressions from Closson Chase, Rosehall Run and Stanners.
Each passing vintage brings more successful bottles to market. Here are three recommendations that show the diversity of regional styles emerging.
Fielding Rock Pile Pinot Noir 2024 (Canada), $25.95
Rating: 90
The wines produced for Fielding’s Rock Pile label are made using grapes grown at its Tufford Road vineyard, which is located less than a 10-minute drive from the winery in Beamsville. The current release offers a compelling mix of juicy red fruit, pepper and savoury notes as part of its fragrant and balanced character. The ripe and bright style is more structured and layered than the pinot noir Fielding winemaker Richie Roberts makes with grapes purchased from the Lowrey Vineyard in Niagara-on-the-Lake. This has 12.6 per cent ABV and 0.5 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, fieldingwines.com
Four Shadows Pinot Noir 2022 (Canada), $32
Rating: 91
Family-owned Four Shadows uses grapes grown in Naramata to produce this plush and fruity expression of pinot noir. The ripe style puts the emphasis on sweet berry and cherry flavours with earthy and herbal notes that add complexity and interest. It’s a modern style that maintains its freshness and focus. This has 13.9 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price direct, fourshadowsvineyard.com
Unsworth Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 (Canada), $38.99
Rating: 90
Pinot noir is one of the star grape varieties in the Unsworth winery’s Cowichan Valley vineyards on Vancouver Island, where it is used to produce sparkling and still wines each year. This is a true cool climate pinot with a lighter body that doesn’t lack ripeness or balance. Its silky texture and mix of floral and red berry and notes give the wine a satisfying character. This has 12.9 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $40.90 direct, unsworthvineyards.com