Two years ago, Toronto’s burger scene underwent a seismic shift when Shant Mardirosian, the visionary founder of The Burger’s Priest, opened Elijah’s Automatic Flame Broiled. Moving away from the ubiquitous smash burger trend, Mardirosian looked to the past — specifically the nostalgic, charcoal-scented roadside stands of 1980s Los Angeles. Now the space at 821 The Queensway has once again, proving it is much more than just a burger joint.
Tucked into the left side of the restaurant is a Mexican concept called The Borrowed Donkey. It focuses on Sonoran-style flavours, sticking to traditional techniques while keeping the flame-grilled style of the main kitchen.
The biggest shift with this expansion is its strict approach to ingredients. The entire Mexican menu is seed oil–free, so it should be a hit for both flavour purists and more health-conscious diners. Tortillas are made to order with lard, giving them a rich, authentic texture that pairs perfectly with the flame-grilled meats.
The standout is the chicken chimichanga. It’s wrapped in a crispy fried tortilla and filled with tender chicken, rice and beans and finished with a sweet mango sauce. If you want something more classic, the steak burrito has a smoky char that nods to the flavour of Elijah’s original burger menu.
Even the smaller details have been refined. The house-made queso is thick and scoopable, paired with a fresh, tomato-forward salsa that carries a gentle kick. To wash it all down, the shop has introduced handcrafted pink lemonade and black cherry drinks, which diners have already started “mix-matching” to create custom flavours.
And just when you think it can’t get any better, save room for dessert. You can pick from Harry and Heels doughnuts like their famous apple fritter, the decadent Nutella-filled or the Fruity Pebble.
Elijah’s Automatic and The Borrowed Donkey are located at 821 The Queensway, open seven days a week for those craving a break from the ordinary.
