Chef Zach Smith has made quite the name for himself in the Niagara region. When he opened Fat Rabbit in St. Catharine’s, it won over the hearts of locals and visitors alike with its master butchery and sustainable practices. And now he’s given it a younger sibling, Les Incompetents.
Described as a ‘French(ish) bistro”, Les Incompetents is Smith’s foray into seafood, and a love letter to the 90s.
“After Fat Rabbit, we wanted to do something a bit more playful: a bar where you could have a proper cocktail and a plate of oysters, or settle in for a full night of sharing plates,” Smith says. “I’ve always loved French bistro cooking, but we didn’t want it to feel stuffy, so we landed on ‘French-ish.’ And yes, the name comes from Home Alone. We take the food seriously; we try not to take ourselves too seriously.”
And the food is being taken seriously by industry experts and food lovers alike: Les Incompetents just earned a Michelin Bib nod, which is not something Smith takes for granted.
“It means a lot to me because the Bib is about good food at a fair price, and that’s exactly what we set out to do,” he says. “When we found out, my first thought was the team. Everyone here works incredibly hard, every night, and this belongs to all of them.”
As for the menu, it’s a mix of seafood options and bistro classics.
“The seafood tower is the showpiece. It’s a great way to start the night with a group. I also love Putanesca Tartine because it’s simple, but it hits every time, which surprises people in the best way. For something classic turned on its head, the jambon beurre is hard to beat,” he says.
And the drinks are rooted in the same philosophy. “The cocktail program follows the same approach as the kitchen: rooted in classics, with a playful streak. My favourite would be Normandy Highball, it looks sleek and tastes exactly how it looks.”
Smith also hopes that the dining experiences, from Les Incompetents and beyond, will drive visitors to St. Catharine’s and realize it as a hidden gem. And he wants Les Incompetents to welcome guests into that experience.
“We’re hoping it brings people to St. Catharines who might not have thought of downtown as a dining destination, whether that’s folks from Toronto, wine country visitors, or locals who haven’t tried us yet. But we don’t want it to change who we are. Our prices will stay approachable, and the vibe will stay relaxed. The goal is to keep earning it every service, not to rest on it.”