Toronto diners’ appetite for plant-based food isn’t slowing down, yet some of the city’s newest vegan restaurants have already closed their doors. One unassuming Chinatown shop, however, has been serving healthy, plant-based food since long before it was trendy and shows no signs of slowing down.
Buddha Vegan (formerly Buddha Vegetarian until 2018) has been serving a vegan spin on Asian cuisine since 1991. Owner and chef Sam Lam, who took over in 2012 and is a Buddhist vegan himself, has watched plant-based eating move into the mainstream, but at Buddha Vegan, it’s been the way of life for decades.
How have you seen the availability for plant-based dining change in the past few years?
Over the last 10 years, there’s been a lot more plant-based food and soy products, which has helped strengthen the market. Toronto is a great city for vegan diners because there are so many options, from Italian and Chinese to Vietnamese and all kinds of other cuisines. It’s great to see.
How does the vegan/vegetarian dining scene in Toronto compare to the rest of the world?
For 35 years, there weren’t many other vegetarian restaurants on Dundas Street or near Chinatown. Now, the number of vegan and vegetarian diners is growing, both in Toronto and around the world. In Europe, for example, people tell me the market is growing, but there still aren’t many restaurants. It takes time and small steps. I hear from many customers from the U.S. and Europe who come to Toronto specifically for its vegan food.
Buddha Vegan has been growing strong for 35 years, while other plant-based restaurants haven’t been able to stick around. Why do you think that is?
I think there will be more vegetarian and vegan restaurants over the next 10 years. The market keeps getting stronger. You might see one restaurant close, but six more are opening.
What’s a menu item you would never get rid of?
Nothing is off the table. We change the menu all the time. I might take a dish off for a year or two, then bring it back. If a customer asks, ‘How come you don’t have this anymore?’ we’ll make it for them. We listen to what our customers want
What’s the secret to 35 years?
I’m not doing this for the money. You have to put your guests first. I don’t call them customers — they’re my guests. I’m cooking for them from the heart, and that’s what makes them come back. It’s about building that connection, not just making money.
What do you want to see from vegan food in the future?
I’d love to see more vegan and vegetarian restaurants opening so more people can try plant-based food. That’s what I hope to see in the future.